Thirty miles from Tarbert down the B842 is Saddell Abbey. My first trip there I almost missed the signpost and the car park along the twisty single track road. It was a cloudy and somewhat rainy day which lent itself to an atmosphere of moody reflection. Once again it was my imagination that took over. Today, as I drove down the B842 I knew where I was going and I was determined to catch a photo of the abbey in sunlight even if it seemed elusive n the unstable weather that seemed to have followed me from Tiree.
Not much remains of Saddell Abbey itself, just a cluster of stone walls set in a graveyard, but this holy place was created by Somerled himself and finished by his son Ranald. The most remarkable thing about the Abbey is not it ancient ruins but the 12 late medieval grave slabs and effigies that marked the burials here. Three of the slabs depict magnificent West Highland lords in full armour. Some believe that Somerled is buried at Saddell Abbey and others say he is at Iona.
Heading back to Tarbert I stopped to re-photograph Skipness Castle built in the early 1200’s by either Clan MacSween founder Suibhne (Sven) ‘the Red’, or his son, Dugald. It was rebuilt several times over three centuries and you have to look closely to find the oldest parts. The castle was a prominent stronghold for the MacDonald Lords of the Isles.
According to Historic Environment Scotland
“Norway ruled Argyll in the 1200s, but the Norse’s days here were drawing to a close – in 1263, Hakon IV was defeated by the Scots at the Battle of Largs. Three years later his successor returned rule of the Hebrides to Scotland in the Treaty of Perth. The MacSweens, who backed Norway, were forced out.By the end of the century, the MacDonalds had control of Skipness. Scotland and England were locked into the Wars of Independence, and the MacDonalds initially backed Englan. The MacDonalds rebuilt Skipness as a formidable stronghold in about 1300, possibly with English support. Their works included:
- the construction of the new chapel by the shore, which is surprisingly well-preserved
- the incorporation of the chapel and hall house into an impressive residence
- construction of a stone curtain wall to enclose the new buildings, bristling with arrow slits and topped with a notched parapet wall
The MacDonalds held Skipness until their downfall in 1493, and in 1502 it was granted to the Campbell earls of Argyll.”
The Skipness Chapel sits about 300 yards from the castle along the shore and is remarkably well preserved. There are three medieval grave slabs in the graveyard.








