Ullappol
May 9, 2025

Ullapool

Another bright and sunny day in Ullapool, Scotland wandering the town before catching the ferry to Lewis.  Ullapool, as we see it today, was built in 1788 by the British Fisheries Society as a planned fishing village.  But the area was settled long before that by the Picts and the Celts and later invaded by the Vikings.  The Vikings came to raid but many also made the new territories their home and for over 700 years Viking settlers lived and farmed around Loch Broom.  The MacDonalds, Lords of the Isles dominated the waters west of Ullapool and Clan MacNicol’s castle is said to have overlooked the Ullapool River.  The MacNicols held land in Lewis between the10th and 14th centuries.  Ullapool became a popular touirist attraction during the time of Queen Victoria when the railroad arrived at Strathpeffer and many of the tourists ventured further north and west. It is a quaint town with quiet neighborhoods and a busy waterfront.  The ferry to the Outer Hebrides leaves from the Ullapool terminal and winds up two and a half hours later in Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis.  The Ullapool gin is excellent and definitely worth taking a bottle home!

Once I landed on Lewis I headed to meet up with Mairi Gillis who planned my week so I can meet local Hebrideans and photograph them for the book.  Mairi lives in Uig, which is about an hour from Stornoway. It was a great afternoon sitting and talking with Mairi, Donald, her partner, and Roddy MacLean, a neighbor descended from the MacLeans of Mull.  We sat, sipped a wee dram and traded stories.  These are moments that make travel so special.

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