Lo and behold the weather was still holding when I work up this morning so quickly booked the pedestrian ferry from Oban to Kerrera, a small island in the Inner Hebrides, and set off on another adventure. The terminal for this ferry, which will only take a maximum of 12 people, is in Gallanach up a single track road about 3 miles from the main port. There is virtually nothing when you reach the island – you must either go north or south, all on foot. I chose the route south to go to the castle, the north end has the marina and a shop. The walk to the castle and back is about two and a half hours, the road north about three or three and a half. Several people brought their bikes on the ferry.
Though not a major stronghold of any kind for the Lords of the Isles, Kerrera was part of the territory ruled by the lords so was on my list of places to visit. The island boasts a total population of around 45 permanent residents, a marina visible from Oban, and an early 1500’s castle. Gyelin Castle, built by the MacDougalls is a compact but impressive tower house, located on a beautiful promontory overlooking the Firth of Lorn. From the ferry it is almost a 3 mile walk to the castle – what WAS I thinking? Half of the walk is on macadam and the rest on gravel until you come close to the castle when it all changes to a path through the grazing fields where sheep wander freely. The walk is very hilly, some of the hills quite long and steep and definitely not recommended for someone with bad knees or not in decent physical condition. Remember, I had to return the same way I came! While it is possible to go to the top of the hill and into the castle I did not venture that far, having left my hiking sticks in my car. I was not feeling steady enough to clamber up the narrow, rocky pathway or then make my way back down. I am always more nervous going downhill than up! I still had a magnificent view of the castle and the surrounding cliffs and rock strewn shoreline where I could imagine seeing the ancient birlins pulled up on shore.
