I’m not sure what I suspected to find on Lismore but the entire island was a vision of lush hills, ruined castles, amazing flowers and trees and stunning views across the water to Ben Nevis and Glen Coe in the distance. I caught the 7 AM ferry from Port Appin and in 15 minutes was on this inner Hebridean island being greeted by Iris from Explore Lismore.  I could not have asked for a better companion and guide for the day.  We spent 10 hours exploring, visiting the museum, sharing lunch, visiting a local artist and traipsing across hills and fields and down steep gravel roads to visit historic castles. It was like being dropped into a lush garden that nature had somehow decided to drop into the water across from the mainland on one side and the Isle of Mull on the other.  We went from one end of the 10 mile long island to the other and it was a good thing we had an offroad vehicle and a fearless driver! The character of Lismore, population around 190,  is one of quiet landscapes dotted with sheep and cattle.

Main attractions are Castle Coeffin, a medieval dwelling of the MacDougalls guarding the local seaways, and St. Moluag’s Cathedral, now the local parish church. Saint Moluag (Old Irish Mo-Luóc) (d. 592), founded a monastery on the island. It was a major centre of Christianity in Scotland, and the seat of the later medieval bishopric of Argyll or the Isles. A mile plus walk across hills took us to Achinduin Castle, which from a distance does not reveal its architecture and amazing views.  It required determination to get to it but was well worth the hike. Built around 1300 by the MacDougalls, it was once the residence of the Bishops of Argyll. I also had a wonderful visit with a local artist, Sarah Campbell, who offers creative retreats that I surely will have to come back to experience. It was a 12 hour day and once again I find my I am on sensory overload!